SB 118: A POTENTIAL DISASTER FOR THE CALIFORNIA WINE INDUSTRY

SenatesealA nod to K&L Wine Merchants for the note below in an effort to raise awareness of this -- see what this proposed legislation means for you and what you can do about it.   
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Part One: Reintroduction to SB 118...

The CA Senate passed a bill on June 17th (SB 118) that is now before the Assembly and soon will go to the Governor. The new law will PROHIBIT direct shipment of wine from California retailers (and retailers anywhere) to California consumers.

California law currently allows ANYONE (including the anti-alcohol forces and the wholesalers) to ENFORCE the prohibitions of the ABC Act, which would include the new law. This new law endangers the ability of every merchant in the state (over 70,000 retailers) to sell wine for shipment to consumers and could in one fell swoop send the industry back to 1935. It cuts off consumer wine shipments from licensed and respected wine merchants all over the United States; that is as anti-consumer and anti-business as one can get. The recent amendment to SB 118 seals off California from interstate commerce in wine from the retailer tier of the industry.

Part Two: What You Can Do...

Cut and paste the template below (or create your own message) and send it to your legislators. At the end of the template we've provided contact links to your State Senator, Assembly Person, the bill's committee members, and Governor Schwarzenegger.

Dear [ name of legislator ] and Governor Schwarzenegger:

We have been told about SB 118, which makes it a crime in California to ship wine direct to a consumer unless the shipper has a direct shipping permit, which are ONLY issued to wineries throughout the US. We are not opposed to permits, but the fact is that retailers in California and elsewhere in the US are PROHIBITED from getting a direct wine shipper permit by this bill. That is WRONG.

This new law takes away our right to receive fine wines from wherever we can locate them. This new law seals off the California consumer from wine merchants in the rest of the country, and potentially from wine merchants in California because the new statute says that California retailers can't ship wine to consumers either. Wine merchants are the only source of older vintages and all of them are reputable and licensed and would be willing to pay California taxes, register with the state and assure that no wine is delivered to a minor.

We support the amendments to SB 118 proposed by the California Grocers Association. If this bill doesn't get fixed, we urge Governor Schwarzenegger to VETO the bill. This is anti-consumer and anti-business. If the system needs to be fixed, we urge you to fix it right and not to harm the entire wine industry in the process.

Sincerely,

[ your name here ]

Part Three: Contact Links...

Your Senator: http://www.senate.ca.gov/~newsen/senators/senators.htp (there is a link on that page to a map that will help you find your State Senator if you are unsure)

Your Assembly Member: http://www.assembly.ca.gov/acs/defaulttext.asp (use the "Find My District" link on that page to help you find the appropriate person, or the "Member Directory" link if you already know)

SB 118 Committee Members:  http://www.aroundthecapitol.com/act/billletter.html?bill=sb_118&cmtehouse=A&cmte=GOVERNMENTAL+ORGANIZATION

Governor Schwarzenegger:  http://www.governor.ca.gov/state/govsite/gov_contacts.jsp?

WINEMONGER -- A GOOD FIRST STEP IN DIRECT SHIPPING

Wm_launch_press_release_logoAs I've posted before,the Supreme Court's recent decision to legalize direct wine shipping to customers is going to have a major positive impact on everyday consumers.  Thought it might take a while to really kick in, but Winemonger seems to be taking all the right steps, especially in the delicious but decidedly under-represented sector of Austrian wines.  You can check out their press release here -- but don't miss the heartwarming anecdote (even if apocryphal) on their site:

In fact, our story began when one of our founders, an Austrian living in California, had ventured out to get his hands on bottles of wine from the climes of home. What he found, when he found some at all, was an extremely limited selection with some heavily inflated prices. We quickly found out why: the wines had been imported to the East coast, sold to a distributor, who then sold them to a wholesaler on the West coast, who then sold them to a retailer (who then tried to sell them to our Austrian.) By the time the wine landed on the shelf it had not only increased its price tenfold, it had also decreased in value due to improper handling and storage. 

Bravo to them and all other wineries and importers who finally have the shackles off and can compete on a level playing field! 

HOW A FAT BASTARD RIDING A RED BICYCLE CAN START AN INTERNATIONAL TRADE WAR

Talk about politics making strange bedfellows -- small French farmers are supporting the US government against the EU.  While I can't say I like the practices they are advocating (e.g., oak chips in wine), it really demonstrates the dire straits in which the struggling small European producers find themselves if they are willing to consider these measures -- I wrote more about it here and here.

The US administration is threatening a wine war with Europe as French producers target American consumers with new brands such as "Fat Bastard" and "Red Bicycle".

Washington is demanding a new wine accord by July 15 to replace one which expired in 2003 and which would enshrine American wine-making practices banned in Europe.

These include adding oak wood chips to barrels of wine to hasten the ageing process, adding water to must (the grape juice before fermentation is complete), and the use of ion extractors to reduce acidity.

Representatives of struggling French wine producers appealed at the international Vinexpo wine fair in southwestern Bordeaux this week to Agriculture Minister Dominique Bussereau and External Trade Minister Christine Lagarde to protect their interests in the negotiations.

European Union officials, pushed by traditionalists, are so far refusing to extend a current dispensation allowing the American practices, but US officials say that if no agreement is reached they will tighten application of the Bioterrorism Act.

Yahoo News has the full story. 

THE AUSSIE ENERGIZER BUNNY JUST KEEPS GOING ...

KangarooNo wonder the French are pushing to liberalize their wine laws -- another record harvest down under:

SYDNEY (AFP) - Australia posted a record wine vintage of 1.9 million tonnes in 2005, boosting production of white wine and keeping volumes of red varieties steady in the face of a world glut, industry figures released Tuesday showed.

The Wine Federation of Australia said the overall vintage was up by 100,000 tonnes or six percent in 2005, building on the record set last year.

But surprisingly Chardonnay, not Shiraz or Cabernet, was the varietal that showed the most growth (up 34%) ... worldwide tastes change slowly, I guess:

White wine grapes harvested increased 13.5 percent to 855,000 tonnes, with chardonnay intake surging 34 percent, while the reds rose 0.5 percent to 1.07 million tonnes.

Yahoo News has the details. 

France finally embraces "Wine of Freedom" (une espace de liberte)

Vin_de_paysDecanter magazine has a great article about how the French national vin de pays is being revived  -- this is vital, and an important step in stemming France's well-documented slide in market share relative to New World varietals (Australian and South American wines in particular).  Nice to see the authorities are willing to address the heart of the problem in reforming their archaic and overly restrictive wine-growing and labeling regulatory framework.

The concept of a national vin de pays - one that will allow blending between different regions and which may be called Vin de Pays de France or Cepage de France - is anathema to many growers. They see it as diluting regionality, and - especially in the south of France - vigorously oppose it.

No surprise, but apparently supermarket sales were the factor that tipped the balance:

Kessler said that the survival of France depends on selling wine in the supermarkets. While 30% of wine is regionally labelled, the vast majority is branded. France has to take its share of that market - but at present it does not have the means.

'If you're not on the shelves you can continue to dream your dream. The reality is market share. In France we don't have the tools to adapt our wines to all markets.'

The key issue, Kessler said, is the idea of 'wine of freedom' - une espace de liberte. Negociants and those responsible for selling wine should be free to market it without interference from growers. 'We will decide what is good for the market. A grower with 10ha of grapes should not tell me how to market wine in Germany.'

Latest wine news

Rebouchage en 2005 (Rebottled in 2005)

Sommelier500 bottles of the world's largest collection of 1961 Chateau Palmer Bordeaux were just recorked over the past 3 days in Macau -- amazingly, only 1.5% of them had oxidized ("corked"):

The procedure is being carried out to ensure the corks, which deteriorate after around 40 years, do not contaminate the wine, which at auction fetches up to 2,000 US dollars a bottle.

Although described as a "painstaking" effort, there seem to be some perks that go with the job:

Each bottle's contents had to be tasted to ensure the wine had not oxydised or corked, souring the smooth wine.

Yahoo News has the whole story.  A votre sante!

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Shipping wine across state lines -- hurray!

Been swamped lately so have been a little short on the posting, but this one is really big news.  It's something that I blogged about months ago, and this ruling will really pave the way for smaller wineries in California and elsewhere to flourish by maintaining contact with folks who visit them as tourists and then want to purchase more juice when they get back home.

Great stuff for the industry overall!  The New York Times has the scoop:

Supreme Court Strikes Down Bans on Wine Shipments

 
     

WASHINGTON, May 15 - The Supreme Court ruled today, in a case of interest to millions of wine-drinkers and those who make a living in the multibillion-dollar industry, that people can buy wine directly from out-of-state vineyards.

In a 5-to-4 decision that struck down laws in New York and Michigan, and by extension calls into question the laws in 22 other states, the court held that laws that discriminate against out-of-state vineyards violate the Constitution's Commerce Clause, which empowers Congress to regulate interstate commerce.

"Laws such as those at issue contradict the principles underlying this rule by depriving citizens of their right to have access to other states' markets on equal terms," the majority held, in an opinion by Justice Anthony M. Kennedy.

Today's ruling does not leave state lawmakers powerless to regulate direct shipments of alcohol, but if they do so they must not favor their own states over other states. Indeed, Nida Samona, the chairwoman of the Michigan Liquor Control Commission, told The Associated Press that her commission would urge lawmakers to bar direct shipments for both local and out-of-state wineries.

Today's ruling is of intense interest not only to the states - 26 of which already allow direct shipment from out-of-state wineries - but also to the wholesale liquor industry, which fears eventually being left out of what is now a state-run three-tier system: liquor producer to licensed wholesaler to licensed retailer.

The worry for liquor wholesalers has been that if the justices ruled that consumers could buy wine directly from out-of-state producers, so might liquor retailers be able to do so, at least in theory.

Today's decision, in the cases of Granholm v. Heald, No. 03-1116, from Michigan, and Swedenburg v. Kelly, No. 03-1274 from New York, had to do with interpretation of the Constitution, the intent of the 1933 Amendment that ended Prohibition and changing personal tastes in the age of the Internet.

When the case was argued before the justices on Dec. 7, lawyers for New York and Michigan asserted that the Prohibition-ending 21st Amendment to the Constitution gave states such wide authority over the importation of alcohol that it trumped the principle embodied in the Commerce Clause: that the states may not, without Congressional authorization, discriminate against one another.

New York's and Michigan's lawyers insisted then that the goals of preventing minors' access to alcohol and assuring that the states could collect taxes from out-of-state shippers justified their states' statutes. Solicitor General Caitlin J. Halligan of New York told the justices that the case "goes to the very core of the 21st Amendment."

Justice Kennedy responded - tellingly, it would appear from today's ruling - that "it also goes to the very core of the Commerce Clause."

Justice Kennedy wrote today that the real object of the Michigan and New York statutes was not protection of minors but rather to give in-state wineries a competitive advantage over those in other states. Justice Kennedy, who was joined by Justices Antonin Scalia, David H. Souter, Ruth Bader Ginsburg and Stephen G. Breyer, said New York and Michigan "provide little evidence for their claim that purchasing wine over the Internet by minors is a problem."

"The 26 states now permitting direct shipments report no such problem, and the states can minimize any risk with less restrictive steps, such as requiring an adult signature on delivery," the majority said. Moreover, the majority said, the states could devise tax-collection procedures without resorting to discrimination in interstate commerce.

"In all but the narrowest circumstances" the states violate the Commerce Clause if they erect barriers to help in-state business at the expense of outsiders, the majority said in describing the Commerce Clause as "essential to the foundations of the Union."

The majority observed that "the current patchwork of laws - with some states banning direct shipments altogether, others doing so only for out-of-state wines, and still others requiring reciprocity - is essentially the product of an ongoing, low-level trade war."

Chief Justice William H. Rehnquist and Justices John Paul Stevens, Sandra Day O'Connor and Clarence Thomas dissented.

Justice Stevens conceded that the New York and Michigan laws would be "patently invalid" if they regulated sales of "an ordinary article of commerce," not wine. "But ever since the adoption of the 18th Amendment and the 21st Amendment, our Constitution has placed commerce in alcoholic beverages in a special category," Justice Stevens wrote. (The 18th Amendment ushered in the era of Prohibition and, some social historians have said, the bootleggers and speak-easies that accompanied it.)

"Today, many Americans, particularly those members of the younger generations who make policy decisions, regard alcohol as an ordinary article of commerce, subject to the same market and legal controls as other consumer products," Justice Stevens wrote. "That was definitely not the view of the generations that made policy in 1919 when the 18th Amendment was ratified or in 1933 when it was repealed by the 21st Amendment."

That alcoholic beverages are something apart in the world of commerce is obvious from what happened after Prohibition ended, Justice Stevens went on: "So-called 'dry states' entirely prohibited such commerce; others prohibited the sale of alcohol on Sundays; others permitted the sale of beer and wine but not hard liquor; most created either state monopolies or distribution systems that gave discriminatory preferences to local retailers and distributors."

Small local wineries were elated by today's ruling. "This is the best day for wine lovers since the invention of the corkscrew," Clint Bolick, counsel for the Institute for Justice, which represented local wineries, told The Associated Press. "It demonstrates that in the era of the Internet the court will vindicate the principles of free trade that made this country great."

And Juanita Swedenburg, the Middleburg, Va., vintner who sued to overturn the New York law, told The A.P. that the ruling was "a boon for America's wine-loving consumers who like to have various wines from throughout the nation."

The laws overturned today are not identical. Michigan's statute flatly prohibited direct shipments by out-of-state wineries. New York's permitted such shipments in theory - as long as the winery maintained a physical presence in New York, including a warehouse to store wines before sale. No out-of-state winery has qualified for this exception in the 35 years that the law has been on the books.

Among the other states that ban direct shipments from out-of-state wineries are Connecticut, Delaware, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Vermont, Massachusetts and Florida. A few states even make importing a felony. (A map showing the wine laws throughout the country can be viewed on the Institute for Justice's Web site, www.ij.org.)

In issuing their ruling today, the justices reversed the United States Court of Appeals for the Second Circuit, which had affirmed the New York law, and it upheld the Court of Appeals for the Sixth Circuit, which had voided the Michigan law.

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Lupa Osteria Romana, New York

LupaContinuing the  Mario Batali tour of NY, Mihir and I decided to swing downtown to get lunch at Lupa, the less pricey and more Roman trattoria-esque version of Batali's Babbo.  The fare was delicious, possibly the best I have had outside of Italy, and the wine list maintains Batali's singular focus on bringing together the hard-to-find authentic regional wines that grew up with this cuisine over the centuries.  Just like Bar Jamon, the formula works and works well.

Lunch consisted of a few antipasti (Baccala with olives & capers, Insalate of escarole with a warm pancetta and garbanzo vinaigrette, and a wonderful bitter winter vegetable whose name escapes me) paired with a small carafe of Piedmont white (Roero Arneis Deltetto 2002). 

We followed with
Linguine alla mattanza (literally, tuna from the harvest or slaughter, a Sicilian speciality) and the day's special which turned out to be the meal's show-stopper, a plate of ravioli stuffed with tender seasoned pork; the ravioli then were pan-seared in a mix of bread crumbs and pecorino romano -- truly one of the most delicious dishes in recent memory.  Couldn't pair the main dishes with anything other than a nice big Sardinian red (Cannonau Di Sardegna Riserva Sella & Mosca 2000).


Bar Jamon, New York

Molto_marioJust back from NY and took every opportunity to do the Mario Batali tour -- Bar Jamon was first on the list.  Given Mario's reputation as a pork aficionado and my love for tapas-style cuisine, the excitement was palpable ...

Bar Jamon more than lived up to the hype.  The food was stellar, and the wine list -- 12 pages of impossible-to-find Spanish-only wines, very refreshing in this age of homogeneity -- made for some great pairings.  The food (and wines, of course):

  • Mussels en escabeche (Ametzoi Txakoli, Pais Vasco 2003)
  • Jamon redondo iglesias reserva de oro y gran seleccion (Mas d'en Compte Tinto, Priorat 2001 -- a blend of Garnacha, Carinena and Cabernet)
  • Tortilla catalana
  • Cheese: Garrotxa (Lustau Almancenista Purto Fino, region Serez -- a wonderful dry sherry)

Although usually crowded, it is easy to pull up a chair at the long tables and chat with other patrons as the tapas arrive.  If too crowded, you could always find your way to the more upscale (also Batali-owned) Casa Mono, but that was more than I could handle on this night ...

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Recommended books on wine

  • Andrea Immer Robinson's excellent teach-yourself course on wine
  • The other great wine & food pairing book on the market
  • One of the two best wine & food pairing books on the market
  • Encylopedic reference tome on all regions and wines. Very educational.
  • Well-written and very informative.
  • A great compact reference book -- extremely helpful when trying to decipher wine labels in other languages.
  • Easily digestible sections for each micro-region in the world. Fantastic maps
  • The gold standard -- read this cover to cover and you'll know more than most wine shop employees

Great wine shops

  • Vintage Wine Merchants
    More than a destination shop -- you can easily spend the whole day talking with Alex, Joe, Mike, Harry and the gang and learning a ton about fine wine. Santana Row wouldn't be nearly as much fun without their shop!
  • K&L Wine Merchants
    Great selection and newsletter. One of the best-designed wine websites around.
  • The Wine Club
    Some real hard to find gems, good futures prices and a great newsletter.
  • Joseph George Wines
    Think about it -- how many wine shops do you know that are 3rd generation family-owned, provide you the owner's name and phone number on their website (and invite you to call for assistance in selecting wines), and are only open noon-5pm Monday through Friday ...! A sign of how well the shop is doing.
  • Vin, Vino, Wine Bottle Shop & Tasting Bar
    Tucked away on California Ave. in Palo Alto, this is truly a shop for the connoisseur -- not as comprehensive as some of the bigger shops, but they more than make up for it with deep collections of exceptional red and white Burgundies. Their newsletter is required reading each month.

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